All Of The Ways You Can Rebuild Collagen (And A Few Ways You Can’t)

When it comes to procedures that can be done by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon, few can touch resurfacing lasers in terms of their ability to rebuild collagen for slow but lasting results.

“Lasers work by punching microscopic holes in the skin, creating a controlled burn and taking advantage of the skin’s ability to heal itself after wounds,” says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “In the healing process the body makes new, healthy collagen to improve skin texture, radiance, and strengthen the skin foundation, eliminating wrinkles.”

Other top laser and light devices that boost collagen include the Ulthera, Fractura, and the Lumecca, says Lauren Abramowitz, PA-C and founder of Park Avenue Skin Solutions.

“All laser and light treatments work by heat staking and denaturation of collagen,” Abramowitz says. “Targeted thermal energy in the form of different wavelengths stimulate the fibroblast cells which in return creates more collagen." Neocollagenesis, the fancy word for the new formation of collagen, takes about 12 weeks.

Neurotoxins like Botox work by relaxing muscles under the skin to prevent skin folding that leads to wrinkles and fine lines, Zeichner says. And they’re incredibly effective at delivering a temporary (four to six month) smoothing of the skin on your forehead and around the eyes, but don’t count on them to rebuild collagen.

You may own an at-home microneeding (or micro-roller) device. You may use it faithfully, three times a week in combination with a powerful vitamin C serum. And, rest assured, you’re reaping some of the benefits of collagen growth—but never confuse an at-home device (or product) with the same service provided by a doctor or skincare specialist.

“There is a huge difference between at-home microroller devices and in office microneedling procedures,” says Abramowitz. “Medical grade microneedling devices must go through FDA clearance, while at home devices are not held to such standards. In-office microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, does trigger a response from the body, which then produces collagen. This treatment is considered minimally invasive, designed to cause micro injuries to the skin by using tiny micro needles.”

If you’re torn between choosing an in-office microneedling procedure or a laser to rebuild collagen, Zeichner says it’s no contest. Lasers win: “The wound created in the skin by microneedling devices are larger than the microscopic channel created by lasers. Also, lasers can penetrate deeper into the skin than microneedling devices.”

The biggest benefit of using at-home microrollers? Better product penetration, according to Abramowitz —so instead of considering a more expensive roller, focus on finding the highest quality serums with anti-aging peptides.

GloPRO Microneedling Regeneration Tool, $199, nordstrom.com.

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There are various degrees of chemical and laser peels that address mild and more advanced skin concerns like wrinkles and hyper pigmentation. And while you’re busy waiting for the temporary redness, dryness, and peeling to subside so you can see your newly radiant complexion, your skin is at work building more collagen and elastic fibers that increase firmness, says Dr. Dara Liotta, a double board certified cosmetic and reconstructive facial surgeon in New York City. So, yes, get that chemical peel (even if it’s superficial) because it provides both short-term and long-term skin benefits.

There are a slew of at-home microcurrent devices on the market. Many cost a small fortune and require that you put your earnings and your faith in the possibility that they will work. And they can be great at building collagen and increasing the laxity in your skin—if you are in your 20s, 30s, and early 40s.

“Microcurrent has been shown to stimulate new collagen production and improve skin laxity,” Zeichner says. “Similar to other at-home devices, these are best for people showing the earliest signs of skin aging. When the skin is young and relatively healthy, using a boost like a microcurrent device can help simulate cells to work optimally.

Ziip Device + Golden Conductive Gel Duo, $495, netaporter.com.

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When Kim Kardashian posted a photo of herself receiving a bloody vampire facial, most people dismissed it as another wacky celebrity beauty trend that would never fly in the real world. But credit where it’s due: Kardashian’s platelet-rich plasma injections, which use growth factors found within our own platelets, can remodel wounds and promote new cell growth and cell regeneration, Abramowitz says.

“These growth factors are released by the platelets and injected into an area of concern such as lower lids, nasolabial folds, crow's feet, neck lines, as well as full face and neck rejuvenation,” Abramowitz says. “An easy way to understand the science behind PRP rejuvenation is that we are treating wrinkles, acne scars, stretch marks and volume loss as wounds. You are basically healing yourself and reversing your aging process.”

Is there any point at all in stocking up on incredible skin creams and serums, or should we save all our pennies for lasers and professional treatments? When it comes to creating new and healthy collagen, maintaining a strict skin care regimen can increase skin turnover and regeneration, elasticity, and suppleness, Liotta says. It can also slow the degradation of the skin’s collagen and elastin—but beware of products that make lofty collagen claims. Products will charge you an arm and a leg for ingredients that sound lovely but aren’t clinically effective.

“Use sunscreens to block or reduce skin exposure to UV radiation, retinoids in order to inhibit collagenase synthesis [collagenase is the enzyme that breaks down collagen] and to promote collagen production, and anti-oxidants to reduce and neutralize free radicals,” Liotta says. “Use antioxidants, such as vitamins C, B3, and E, polyphenols and flavonoids, to reduce collagen degradation by reducing the concentration of free radicals in the tissues. Then use cell regulators, such as retinols, peptides and growth factors, to act directly on the collagen metabolism and stimulate the production of collagen and elastic fibers."

ROC Retinol Deep Wrinkle Night Cream, $24.99, ulta.com.

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As we age, and especially during menopause, our bodies lose estrogen. This important hormone serves several functions—one of which is that it prevents a decrease in skin collagen and can keep your skin more lax and younger-looking.

“Studies have shown that topical and systemic estrogen therapy can increase the skin collagen content and therefore maintain skin thickness (though hormone replacement therapy is controversial for a number of reasons, and not necessarily recommended),” Liotta says. “Sebum levels are higher in postmenopausal women receiving hormone replacement therapy. Skin wrinkling also may benefit from estrogen as a result of the effects of the hormone on the elastic fibers and collagen.”

Some of the side effects of hormone replacement therapy include nausea, headaches, leg cramps, and vaginal bleeding. It’s important to discuss this option with a doctor to decide if it's right for you.

A few studies have shown that oral intake of collagen peptides can reduce skin wrinkles and have other beneficial effects on the skin. The benefits of collagen taken as a supplement are numerous and can extend even beyond skincare.

“Several studies indicate the multiple benefits of collagen peptides in supporting connective tissues throughout the body,” says Dr. Shelena Lalji, founder and medical director of the Dr. Shel Wellness & Aesthetic Center in Texas, a board-certified obstetrician and gynecologist, and the author of I Am Woman: Our Journeys to Health, Happiness and Harmony. “For example, aging adults with wear and tear on joints may experience discomfort and benefit from collagen supplementation. Athletes want to feel good and optimize their performance by supporting the musculoskeletal system. Adults that have lost moisture in their skin due to aging, environmental stressors, and sun exposure, and who would like to improve their overall appearance will also benefit from hydrolyzed collagen.”

But similar to creams and serums, just because a supplement makes a claim and was created in a lab, doesn’t mean it is effective enough to provide those results. Lalji, who is a medical advisor to Douglas Laboratories, says it’s crucial to buy supplementation from professional grade supplement companies that are GMP certified and go above and beyond with certifications and accreditation that test their products for potency and safety.

“One of the quickest and easiest ways to ensure the purity of a supplement is by simply looking at the ingredients,” Lalji says. “If it has very few added ingredients, it most likely is not manufactured with unnecessary fillers or additives. I am also a firm believer that price is a proxy for premium. The less you pay for a supplement, the less pure it most likely is. Not to say you should pay an exorbitant amount for a collagen supplement, but know that collagen is not an inexpensive ingredient and therefore, to have it at it's purest, you can expect to pay a little more for it.”

Since collagen supplements are a relatively new category, some experts are retaining a healthy degree of skepticism about the results you can expect.

“Collagen is a large molecule and for the most part is broken down into its component amino acids in the gut,” Zeichner says. “It has been suggested that these amino acids enter the bloodstream and provide the building blocks for new healthy collagen production. However the jury is still out on collagen supplements.”

For now, collagen supplements made by a reputable company can’t hurt and might help (or might not). Who knows—supplements could end up becoming the vampire facial of 2023. And you’ll be the Kardashian-like skincare guru with radiant skin who can smile and say you’ve known about them all along.